Saturday, December 27, 2008

A toy from Grandma's house


The plastic motorcycle cop, legs molded in China to form the perfect straddle, was hanging lopsided from his once-glimmering Harley Davidson. A layer of dust covered the aviator-wearing patrolman from his CHiP's-style helmet to jet-black boots. He wasn't the lawman he used to be.

His bike's seen better days, too. The foot-long motorcycle was on the verge of snapping in five different spots. The siren and radio antenna hung by frayed wires. Once able to wail and flash, the 20-year-old assembly of burnt-out bulbs and jammed motors was now dead, like the corroded 9-volt battery rusting inside the Harley's frame.

When I was a kid, no more than 5 years old, I loved this thing. I remember the smell of burning plastic it made, like a model train, when I tuned it on and let it loose. It would race across the tile floor of my grandparents' kitchen, clattering and wailing, bumping into the wooden cabinets and chasing the other motorized toys my grandfather had bought for me at flea markets and bric-a-brac shops around town.

At least 15 years since the last time I'd seen this cherished plaything, I found it. The toy was sitting on a shelf in my grandparents' living room -- the same shelf I'd always put the plastic cop after every ride. The years, though, had added clutter to the motorcycle's parking space. The thing was on top of a calendar stuck in January, 1992, with a Chinese diaroma of a white crane stuffed next to it, along with a box of pictures left over from my parents' wedding, and a dozen other events that happened more than a quarter-century ago.

For the first time in at least a decade, I was back at my grandparents' house. It's a place where I spent so much of my time as a little boy living and playing, right at that age when your first memories form, and certain smells and sights get hardwired into your brain forever.

I'd like to say that when I stepped back into this house, it was like going back in time. The television in the living room is the same hulking Sony from the 1980s. Original baby pictures of me, my brother and cousin are still hanging over the front door. The carpet is still thick and pink like it was in 1985, the same pomegranate trees grow in the back yard, and the koi pond is still shaded by creeping jasmine vines.

But my return wasn't quite a trip back 20 years. This house, its Westminster, Ca., address stamped on my grandfather's naturalization certificate hanging in the dining room, and on his death certificate tucked away in a drawer somewhere upstairs, has remained far from frozen in time. Coming back into this house was like visiting a grandmother after too many years have passed. It's aged, and like hair thins, bones get brittle and skin turns pale, time has left this place a dusty anachronism, a worn memorial to an era passed, left wrinkled by a future moving at the speed children grow up, and plastic motorcycles rust and crumble.

If those baby pictures over the door were updated, they'd show my brother off fighting a war in Afghanistan, my cousin away at college, and me, the firstborn with his portrait placed a little higher than the other grandsons, writing this memoir in the next room, wishing the koi pond still had fish inside, and the pomegranate trees were still in bloom.

Friday, December 19, 2008

A brief memoir about looking back, and sprinting ahead

Nostalgia's been courting me these past few days, but I've been able to keep her at bay by grinding through finals and working on my last few news stories as a college student. Now that all the papers have been written and exams completed, I've finally found a moment to reflect. But when I close my eyes and let my mind wander, instead of images of the past, flashes of the future fill my head.

My college years have been incredible. They've changed my life. They've defined me as a person in all the ways that matter, allowed my soul to soar and my heart to mature. During these four years and five months, I've forged lifelong friendships. I've fallen in and out of love. I've found my talent, my passion and my calling. I got out of college everything I wanted and so much more. And as I look over now at my cap and gown sitting on my bed, I feel not nostalgia, but contentment.

I'm ready to go, and I am more excited than ever to live every day once I'm gone. When I close my eyes and think about the months and years ahead, I find that my dreams are beginning to mirror reality.

I graduate from college tomorrow with degrees in journalism and political science. A few days later, I will celebrate Christmas with my family in Lakeland, Florida, and the next day I will leave to begin work on what I hope will become the most compelling, moving, and meaningful story I have yet to tackle. My reporting will take me to California, and then to Southeast Asia, where I will retrace the steps of my family as they lived, died and found their way to freedom during a time of turmoil in the world that shouldn't soon be forgotten. When I return after a few months, I will rest and reflect, and begin writing my story. I will also be eagerly awaiting the future. On June 1, I start an internship with the New York Times.

And while I've yet to fall in love and stay in love, the future, I'm sure, will lead me exactly where I need to be for that to happen.

If someone told me that my life would be like this at 22 when I was an 18-year-old moving into his first college dorm room, I would be proud of myself, beyond any doubt. But I would be proud not because of any accomplishment or title, but because I stayed true to myself, and followed my heart, not anyone else's idea of how my life should play out.

I don't know what I've done to deserve such a blessed disposition, so all I can do is say "thank you" to my mother, father, brothers, sister, and everyone else who has guided, loved, hurt and helped me, or in some way steered my path along the way to now.

Friday, December 12, 2008

A Newsroom is...

A newsroom is a frenetic hub for spit-fired facts and weighty revelations.

It’s a command center for online streams of audio bits and .jpeg bytes.

It’s a switchboard, hotline and control tower for phone calls dialed-in from disparate corners of the world, or from the seldom-used pay phone on the downtown street corner.

Like a nervous system in its synergy and synthesis of information, a newsroom takes in and processes volumes of details and reams of data.

It takes the chaos of life, death, money and politics and distills it down to the essence of what’s important, and what’s merely static obscuring the truth and the public’s best interest.

Wednesday, December 3, 2008

Finals

I started home from campus tired and hollowed out, still woozy from the marathon of cerebral exertion I'd just crossed off: a writing session more like an endurance trial, a grinding stretch of hunched and shivering study, a down-to-the-wire exam ever-crucial to finishing the term and ending college. This late-semester crucible had consumed me for the past day, night and morning in a sleepless amalgamation of run-together hours and sunlight melting into darkness and materializing back again. As I walked, my body was drawn toward the ground by a force more than gravity. Instinct weighed on my shoulders, urging me to crumple and rest. But as I wandered through this deeply November afternoon, my body still cursing my mind, rays of satisfaction shone behind my eyes. The thrill of victory, of getting it done -- and done right -- gave me the sensation that if I flexed my arms and pumped them strong and steady through the air, I'd take off from the ground, bound by nothing under the sky.

Monday, November 10, 2008

An Unfilled Quest for 'The Gray Lady'

November 07, 2008 9:58 PM

ABC News On Campus reporter Dominick Tao blogs:

The morning after the election, after brushing my teeth and making some tea, my first priority was to grab a copy of The New York Times. I figured a copy of printed history would look great framed on my wall, and perhaps on the wall of one of my grandkids years from now.

The first place I went to acquire a copy was one of the many free newspaper bins on campus. The path of least resistance -- and least amount of money. The University of Florida's student government pays for a few thousand copies of the Times, as well as USA Today, for students daily. Problem is, the student ID-activated bins around campus are first-come, first-served. Since I'd been up until the wee hours of the morning reporting, I didn't rise until 10 a.m.

Click here to view Tao's search for a historical edition.

By the time I rode my bike the half-mile to campus, every bin had been completely depleted. Guess I'd be forking over $1.25 at a supermarket.

Wrong.

After class, I continued my search by traveling to two Publix Supermarkets, the main grocery chain in Florida. Both were completely sold out of every newspaper -- even the student newspaper, which is free. The racks were bare.

Where else could I get an NYT? "Aha!" I thought. What better place than the Gray Lady's bosom buddy of liberal stereotypes: Starbucks Coffee. I traveled to two of them. The racks next to the registers in both locations were empty.

After the second Starbucks, I climbed back into my SUV and begrudgingly fired up its gas-guzzling engine. This quest was beginning to get out of hand. It was becoming more of a sick mission to prove to myself that I could find a copy rather than actually getting a copy.

I visited a Target. Nope. A Barnes and Noble. Sold out. Three gas stations. No, nada, nuh-uh.

By this time, darkness was beginning to fall over the city, and with each passing minute, I could feel my chances of getting an Obama victory copy of America's newspaper of record slipping away.

So I called my mom. She lives in Lakeland, Fla. The Lakeland Ledger, a New York Times Co. paper, prints copies of the NYT for the entire region. Could they have extra copies? She called them up, but it was too late. There were no more for the general public at the regular price.

Yes, we had entered gouging territory. Newspapers across the country were upping the price for reprints. And whoever said Barack Obama was bad for the free market should really check out eBay. On the evening of Nov. 5, copies of the New York Times were on sale for more than $200 each. And people were actually buying!

The next day, I knew my chances had all but slipped away. But I still had one more idea. Since I am a poor student and couldn't afford online auction prices, I decided to turn slightly to the dark side; I went into one of UF's libraries with the intention of snatching a copy from the periodicals section.

I failed at that too. Someone had already beaten me to it.

Maybe someday, when I have grandkids, I'll just tell them a good story. Who needs a framed newspaper anyway?

Dejected, I updated my Facebook status: "Copies of the New York Times are completely sold out in Gainesville..."

One of the responses reminded me, though, that my Nov.5 NYT tragedy was just one of many.

My friend Liz posted to my profile: "Ditto here...P***ed me off too. Besides the cover story, every Wednesday is the special Food and Wine section!"

Saturday, November 8, 2008

Eat, Drink, Be Wealthy

There was a banner above the cash registers. Its narrative line was like a laser beam, punching a message straight from Ronald McDonald's french-fried command bunker and into the brains of those waiting citizens wanting in line.

Eat, Drink, Be Wealthy. Monopoly.

How unfortunate to have been literate and human at that intersection of text and time.

I tried to avert my eyes, but the back-lit sign penetrated my consciousness like God's all-seeing eye. Its message was simply too powerful. Like sex on a string, it reeled me in. The extent of my free will stretched only so far as the choice between combos one through nine, and whether to supersize my order of fried potato pulp and reprocessed ground beef.

I was a walking gullet on a conveyor belt, shuffling forward with each passing order, drawn irresistibly toward that credit card swipe at the fast food counter.

Then I arrived. The girl wearing the Mcbranded visor and too-big polyester shirt said not a thing. She just looked at me, expecting me to know exactly what to do. And I did.

Number three, the QPC. I resisted the urge to supersize, to get the biggest of the Big Macs and double my chances of becoming a McMillionaire in that peel-off game that's been fueling dreams of no-work wealth since I was just starting to wean off the Happy Meal. But I still faltered. I got a coffee, too. Large. Despite the free refills, the larger cup would maximize my earning potential.

What a voodoo investment, my brain was telling me. But to think -- how $0.35 in extra pennies now could change my life! Just like the banner told me, straight and simple, all I've got to do is eat more, slurp more Coke, and I'd be everything I've ever wanted to be. And Monopoly, with McDonald's help, by God, is the way to do it!

Wednesday, November 5, 2008

Writing history: the student reaction to the '08 election

Joy and Celebration Over Obama Victory

November 05, 2008 1:18 AM

UncseeABC News On Campus reporter Dominick Tao blogs:

There were moments when Bequita Gaines couldn't speak. She saw the words on the screen, she heard the crowd roar behind her, but the 21-year-old University of Florida senior said she couldn't believe what she was watching.

Surrounded by hundreds of cheering students under the vaulted ceiling of UF's Grand Ballroom on campus, the Barack Obama supporter had just seen her months of hoping and praying reach a resounding end. She began to cry.

The election had just been called, the marquee on the giant projector towering above her was displaying history.

President-Elect: Barack Obama.

"Words can't even express how I feel right now," Gaines said. "It's simply so amazing to be alive."

Shortly after that moment, students across America erupted in emotional celebrations on campuses and in barrooms, in living rooms and countless election-watch parties.

For many, this was the first political event in their lives for which they've felt any passion. And for others, this election day was the first where they've even been old enough to vote.

At the University of North Carolina and other universities around the country, students rushed the streets after the election was called by major newspapers and TV networks. Horns honked. Crowds chanted.

Whether their state was red or blue, students described the election in words that transcend state lines and party rhetoric: Monumental. Historic. Special.

From Gainesville, Fla. to Syracuse, N.Y., students have compared their excitement to being a kid again on Christmas Eve. Only there are no wrapped presents on Nov. 4, just the satisfaction of knowing that they put the candidate most favored by young people, Obama, into the White House.

From watering holes around the University of North Carolina campus to the University of Texas, screams of excited students echoed into the night, some comparing their experiences more to a post-football game revelry than an election return.

The lead-up to the celebration was a cross-section of revelry and civic duty.

"Students are starting for the first time in their lives to care seriously about an election," said David Lopez, a University of Florida political science major, who watched the election results from the corner of Brophy's Irish Pub in downtown Gainesville with fellow members of his political science honor society.

And even as the DJ sets up his equipment, and the Guinness continued flowing behind the bar, Lopez and his classmates remained glued to the big screen TV.

"Today is not an excuse to party, but to participate," he said.

Students across America settled in to couches and bar stools, theater seats and ballroom floors. Their eyes were fixed to massive projector screens and laptop monitors. They were tuned in
to dozens of networks and Web sites, but they were all watching the same thing: The 2008 presidential election, the election where many of them feel they've made a difference.

"This is a monumental moment that I'm glad I'm alive for," said University of Texas senior Shafayet Faraizi as he watched election results with the University Democrats. "In a hundred years, people will remember this."

For some of these college students, watching history unfold is more important than even college -- if only for the night.

After dark at Top of The Hill, a popular restaurant near the UNC campus, ear-piercing sounds of joy shot from a corner of the outdoor patio. A table of young women were ecstatic. Obama had just taken Ohio.

Shortly after, UNC freshman Katie Musgrove hugged friends and said, "I'm gonna fail my French test tomorrow, but I don't care! I'm so exhilarated!"

While the majority of college students had reason to celebrate, students backing John McCain were largely absent from even the large non-partisan celebrations.

At the UNC Young Republicans election watch party, held in a classroom on campus, there was no beer, and fewer than 30 students filled just a few rows in the large lecture hall.

As the viewers saw on the projector screen that North Carolina may help elect Obama for president and Democrats for Governor and a Senate seat, a student said, "What happened to our state?"

North Carolina hasn't elected a Democrat to the office of president since Jimmy Carter in 1977.

Back at the Top O', voices from rooftops cheer when a state turns blue on the network election maps. When a state turns red, the din evokes the stadium rumble of a bad call against the home team during homecoming.

Even UNC Senior William Humphries, a Republican taking in the election among hundreds of Democrats at the restaurant, said being with friends was more important than party affiliation. "There is no other place to be in Chapel Hill," he said.

Then, the election was called.

Back at the University of Florida in the Reitz Student Union Grand Ballroom, hundreds of students reacted to history in a way more heartfelt than any celebration the school has seen in recent semesters, even after three national championships in as many years.

Kristian Fong, a UF sophomore, saw the words on the screen: President-Elect Barack Obama.

She shot up from her chair. Her voice already gone from hours of cheering, the 19-year-old first-time voter sqeaked out nonsensical, joyous nothings toward the cavernous ballroom ceiling. Her hands waved in the air, she jumped, she danced. Tears came to her eyes, and all around her, a chest-rattling din of cheers and wild flailing of celebrating bodies welcomed the next president of the United States.

Walter Storholt, Carly Swain, Wilson Andrews, Andrew Egan and Sabina Kuriakose contributed to this blog.

Wednesday, October 29, 2008

Just burn the gas and buy the stuff, O.K.?

Eight lanes plus turn slots, channeling straight through suburbia and on to the shrinking hem of this great state's pastoral middle parts. This road through the glittering paragon of American dreams, the gamut of Joe Six-pack consumer bliss, is utterly clogged -- even on a Sunday afternoon.

It makes sense, though, that the shiny chariots of modern individualism, from those cute Mini imports to the fire-engine-red Hummers than trundle along like every little boy's Tonka-truck fantasy, congest this asphalt artery bejeweled with Targets and Pet Supermarkets and Linins'n'Things.

It makes sense because the fat little people behind the wheels, going somewhere, but nowhere really, are just as plaque-ridden around their heart valves as the intersection between Dale Mabry Highway and U.S. 41. Growing from any given mile, there can be plucked a Big Mac or a Whopper, a 700-calorie cinnamon crunch bagel with onion cream cheese, or a Venti carmel double-shot mocha whole-milk Frap -- to go.

And even as the strip-mall superplexes give way to an actual horizon, albeit marred by tangles of power lines and barbed-wire bovine enclosures, there are still bastions of want it, need it, get it along the way.

Another 7-Eleven for the road, and a Big Lots right behind it just in case those cravings for cut-rate garden sheers or a snow globe from somewhere in Godforsaken communist China begin to pant at those drivers' hungry wants as the roll past, spewing dinosaur dust into the air on their way home.

Tuesday, October 21, 2008

Via dolorosa

The fire between my fingertips grew cold and died.

I fell to my knees in the darkness, shivering under the trees.

And under the indigo sky, I let myself whither like ashes in the wind.

My body crumpled to the ground, the grass and leaves taking me in.

I let the sticks dig into my uncaring skin, and the soil cover my hair.

I fell to the Earth and let it hold me. I curled like an infant, and I cried.

With every sob in my chest, with every pitiful sound, I parted ways with some of her sorrow.

And then, despite the Autumn chill, I no longer shivered.

The tears had run their course. I lay on my back, my arms spread wide, in quiet surrender to infinity.

I looked to the heavens, and their boundless indifference shone back, comforting me in my smallness.

The black boughs of ancient oaks framed the stars like gnarled dragons in the night, guarding the pinpricks glowing hotter and higher than any man can truly fathom.

And then I thought of her, and the far-away suns began to blur.

I turned again to the Earth, to let her take my tears. But in exchange, she took from me my warmth, dragging it into the ground.

I closed my eyes. I wanted to sleep then, to submit, exposed and worn.

But I felt the sand between my toes. The dirt in my hair. The sticks in my side.

The fire in my soul.

I am but a man on this Earth, and have no time to waste.

Wednesday, October 15, 2008

Reckless youth to the sound of VAHHH-ROOOM!

The old man's conspicuous voice spilled in 'soon as the grimy door to the mechanic's bay swung open.

"Yeeeahhh. Alll-right. I 'ken wait."

He came in sideways, his thick gray boots clomping along with the labor of a body gnarled by time, and perhaps a stroke.

I was in the waiting room. I was getting a check-engine light checked out.

He was gangly, wore an old flannel shirt. His old Chevy pickup was getting serviced on a lift on the other side of the waiting room glass. The man scanned the room quickly, and spied the vacant seat next to me. His walking pace kicked up, and the man made a line for the chair like a kid going for the last cookie.

He sat down. I wanted to tell him the cute college girl who was sitting there had just gotten up to use her cell phone. I let it slide.

The man had a white peppering of sparse whiskers, and tufts of gray stuck from the edges of his mesh trucker hat.

He glanced left, then to his right, to me, expectantly. I nodded, and got back to my reading.

After a moment, a car with a custom exhaust roared to life from the garage. Its deafening bellow echoed through the building, charged with horsepower, tingling of irreverence. At that, the old man grinned widely, his crooked smile genuine as they come. He perked up. He stopped slouching. He laughed.

The shriek of an engine through his half-deadened eardrums took him back through time, driving an aural elixir of youth into his feeble frame.

It was suddenly 1955, and he was a teenager behind the wheel of his solid steel baby. A '38 Ford coupe, the kind with the grumbling rattiness of an outlaw on the run, the kind of rubber-burning machine that sends little Beaver Cleavers running behind mama's apron.

I looked at him as he smiled in that waiting room half a century later.

"How'bout 'dat! Dat is real nice," he said to me. His mouth was contorted, and his tongue swollen, impairing his ability to speak.

I asked the kind of cars he liked.

The fast ones.

Back when the fastest you could legally go in America was 55, this old man was an outlaw. He got into a lot of trouble for ripping down a county road 40-over.

He got his license taken away for it. Worth every trifle.

If only the judge understood!

"He was 80," the man said. In 1955, the ancient magistrate would still have been born long before the automobile was.

And then the man's eyes got far away, and the ripping howls of the revving engine died off.

"Now I'm too old to go that fast," the old man said. But there was still a smile on his face.

The mechanic came in.

"Mr. Tao?" he said.

All I needed was a new engine sensor. My 250-hp two-ton black-coated off-road baby was just fine. I got up and left.

As I slipped behind the wheel of my SUV, my foot felt good on the gas pedal. My hands felt good on the wheel.

This ride home would be faster than safe, but fast enough to keep me sane and satisfied when I'm 70.

Sunday, September 28, 2008

The Assassin uncovered

Killing is the ultimate intimacy.

No, not that button-push bomb dropping, or anonymous spray-and-pray murder with shrapnel and stray shots, but the kind where you look the person in the soul, and know that you are about to extinguish a life with the force of your own.

For the virgin killer, that first notch is a dark, blood-stained rush of emotion. It's like the carnal gravity between a pair of smoldering loins, only the consummation is more final than any earthly vow. The afterglow is like that warm, slow burn of falling in love, only its swaddling blanket of satisfaction is sopping wet with a swarthy muddle of illicit pleasure or un-scrubbable guilt.

And surviving an attempt on your life, evading death, denying that other control over your body, your destiny, your future, is a pupil-spreading orgasm of fear, anger, and vendetta. At that moment of confrontation, when you are staring down that being who aims to take everything from you, the adrenaline-addled flare of visceral panic takes over. Muscles tense, claws bare. You fight, or you flee.

So even a carefree facsimile, a murder and assassin game played with squirt guns and smiles, is an exercise in blasphemy, a lust for domination, a test of primal instinct, the will to survive.

Last night, I became the hunter, and the hunted.

Friday, September 19, 2008

The Double-Mocha Non-Fat Caramel Frappachino

During the day, the coffee shop here is pretentious enough, replete with the self-styled cognoscenti of south Tampa hipsterism. It's Hyde Park, mind you, SoHo. Yes, South Howard Avenue.

But now that night has descended and the twinkling lights have been switched on, this dandyish house of organic cigarettes, man purses and latte-sipping twiggies has entered the full thrum of material ego and designer passion.

The Frenchman writer burrowed deeply into the velveteen couch hasn't stirred from his brow-furrowed staring in nearly an hour. His American Spirits and pink bic have been there the whole time too, clasped between his hand and the armrest. He doesn't get the reward until he makes a breakthrough.

Ah... To hell with it.

He leaves his canvass bag behind, and goes for the little snack anyhow. Maybe inspiration will come about that way, as the white carcinogenous tendrils slither from his nostrils and into the chatter-rattled humidity outside.

Bleary-eyed and addied up, the chemistry and anatomy and engineering textbook zombies shakily turn the pages, Blackberrying after every half-paragraph, glancing up only to lazily scope the latest change in the chair clusters outside the plate glass windows.

The bi-xenon headlights flicker past on the other side. The bourgeoisie is coming to play. More are arriving every minute. The parking may be getting out of hand about now.

A curly-haired Persian with the calculus on his screen tch tch tchs at a tiny moth, and flaps his hand at the thing. The white fluttering bug, so small it's almost a figment of his binary imagination, annoys the student to the point of lashing out with a full-force slap. Perhaps the figment-moth is merely a violent metaphor for the same polynomial he's been staring at for two hours.

And then a pair of muscle-chested rainbow boys walk in, their sunglasses shielding the public from their anticipating eyes.

What, you're not here to see and be seen too?

Indiscernible chatter and notes of nicotine spill in from the open doors behind them. And the barristas' third-shift wit spills out:

"Don't you need an I.D. to have caffeine at this hour of the night?"

No, but you need one to be anywhere else.

Sunday, September 14, 2008

Battle in the dark

It was dark. I was alone in my room. The lights were off.

The inherently vulnerable setting made the scrapes against my windowpane that much more primal. Even in full daylight, though, the noises would have been unmistakable.

They were the sounds of a furious struggle, like something stuck and trying to escape from a lonely death, or an animal injured and trying to flee.

At first I thought it may have been a raccoon stuck in the gutter, or trying to climb onto the roof from a tree branch. But the continuous clicks and scrambles against glass and metal had a desperation to their cadence that seemed somehow beyond just a mischievous backyard critter.

With my body stiff from the nascent flow of adrenaline, the kind of defensive pick-me-up a fight or flee would evoke, I put on my sandals, picked up my MagLite, and walked into the pitch-black back yard. I was in my underwear.

As I rounded the corner and shone the light along the edge of the roof, I kept my shoulders rounded and my eyes wide. And then, I heard the noise again -- this time, louder, and right next to my face. The flashlight beam jerked upward. And then I saw the implausible source of the commotion.

A little gecko had clamped onto a huge palmetto bug and was trying to devour the thing head-first, despite the fact that the insect was nearly as large as the lizard itself!

The roach-like insect was running its legs like a machine in overdrive, scraping against the glass and metal, trying to claw its way in reverse out of the gecko's jaws. The gecko, head sagging from the weight of the bug, suspending its prey seven feet above the ground, was doing what it could to hang on, and somehow fit the chitinous mass of spines and antennae down its soft, nearly transparent throat.

I looked around to see if there could be any other possible cause for the noises.

Nothing.

Escape or die. Eat or starve. Despite the tiny size of the combatants, the ruckus raised by this battle for survival was loud enough to rouse me into the dark yard in the middle of the night.

This little scene of nature unfolding outside my window shows that even from the humblest creatures, the drive to survive, to live, is a force stronger than most of us will likely ever know.

A small gecko attempts to devour a giant palmetto bug. Their struggle was far louder than they were.
Photo | Dominick Tao

The quest for gasoline

I was the estro-charged mom freezing her toes off and trampling the less rabid mother-kind outside Wal-Mart the day after Thanksgiving. I was the squirrel hard-wired to horde and hide. I was black and white and wearing a fedora, rabbling outside a bank in October of 1929 and waving a withdrawal slip high into the air.

The realization and necessity fell upon me in an instant. Panic.

I needed to get some damn gas.

I'd been tuning out the Hurricane Ike media jabber for the past few days. It would be the same blunderbuss peppering of stories about devastation and slow evacuation, rescue efforts and a bold woman named Shirley too stubborn to leave Mr. Percival Fluffmonger the French poodle behind. Just swap out cities and stills of folks clinging to their rooftops, add some floodwater and wind, and you'd have yourself a week's worth of prime-time TV.

Then I noticed the bit about gas prices. In an instant, I started to care. It's a callous thing, and I'm ashamed -- that despite all the weather-induced suffering out there, the one story to reach into my primal innards and pinch that nerve ending that regulates apathy and fear had to be about oil.

I threw on some pants, put on a shirt, grabbed my keys, and jumped into my SUV. Hell, the canoe was still strapped to the roof from the river trip the day before. But there was no time to take it down! I felt as if I was racing against some invisible clock, that in an instant, gears in some far-away arcane mechanism would click and tumble, and gas prices in Gainesville would double.

I had about a quarter tank, and was planning to drive about 300 miles sometime in the next week. I had to act now! And act fast! An extra half-dollar per gallon tacked on to a tank of gas would come out to be something like a whole day's food budget for a poor college student like me.

I got halfway down the street and realized I'd forgotten my wallet. In the dark, you'd see my brake lights flare a bright red, and my car barrel in reverse back down the street. I ran inside, grabbed my debit card, and ran back out.

Once I got driving, I felt better. Almost there. Almost to a whole strip of petroleum fountains.

Then I saw the first illuminated sign. A Shell station. Regular: $4.09. No! Was I too late? My limits were set. I'd refuse to pay a cent over $3.99 for a gallon of explosive dino-bones.

I continued north on 13th Street. Bingo. A Gate. $3.89. I pulled in, ready to sidle up to the pump and gas up. Fill my guzzling black beauty with the noxious tonic she needed to ride and roar.

But then I saw the plastic bags over the pump handles, and the crudely penned signs on printer paper: "Sorry, out of regular and mid-grade."

The madness had already begun to creep into the city.

This night was turning into a hell of burning gas simply to find gas. I had to try at least one more place. I started off for the big Kangaroo on Main street and 16th Ave.

My left leg jittered the whole five-minute jaunt across town. Then I pulled up to the intersection. Out of the darkness, the aura of glowing, humming fluorescent lights emerged from the humid night. The Kangaroo's LED sign was burning red, presenting its numbers for all to see: Three dollars and eighty six cents for pure, simple unleaded. Well, with 10 percent ethanol, but who's keeping track?

Success.

I swiped my card, and felt elation as the gasoline gushed into my truck, and the fumes rose in a smear of vapor from the nozzle and into my nostrils.

The smell of victory. Hopefully it will be many days until I will again need to harness this hollow ring of success.

Wednesday, September 3, 2008

Gainesville

Dominick Tao, right, paints a section of the 34th Street Wall. The eventual message left behind: "Our years together seem so brief because there haven't been nearly enough."

Every time I move to a new city, I write a few words about it -- its vibe, its color, its feel.
But moving back to Gainesville this August prompted more than just a few quick stanzas. Returning to the place I've spent most of the past four years enchanted me on a whole new level. So I wrote a little something about the city for the Alligator.

Here it is:

"Gainesvile is for Lovers"
By Dominick Tao

The place is an alcoholic and a hippie, a scenester and a sports star, a handbag–crazy nature freak at ease in the library same as a disco.

It’s a town of around 100,000 that fills a stadium holding nearly as many weekend after weekend every fall.

It has an indefinable essence, the kind of easy charm that has seduced artists of every chord, from our era’s folkie giants, like Bo Diddley, Tom Petty and Sister Hazel, to the cutthroat flashpan of top–40 fame, like Less Than Jake and Against Me!


It’s a mecca for a religion of pigskin and Heisman heroes, with roots in a tiny place called Hogtown, once upon a time just a little railroad stop skirted by Civil War skirmishes.

The city runs on a fuel of human experience, year after year of fresh–faced teenagers, a late–summer bloom of new minds ready or not to plunge into a place that becomes, for many, more than a degree factory.

Somehow, four years on, the city and its surroundings stop feeling like an inanimate municipality.

It becomes an old friend, a love, a study partner and a drinking buddy.

It’s a cradle for so many firsts for so many people, a place where grandpa and grandma grads can go on for hours about their alma mater and the city it couldn’t do without.

For others, it’s where they find their husband or wife, where they experience first keggers, toe–curling orgasms or nights away from home.

They’ll never forget the smell of those first dorm rooms, the sight of an underwear run or the endless sea of game–day orange and blue.

But a constant remains for all but the few who have a falling–out with the city: It’s the place where they grew more than they ever had before, where red bricks and old trees and a long–painted wall become more than they actually are.

That’s Gainesville.

And I’m in love with the place.

Four years ago this week, I moved into my first UF dorm room. Prior to that, I had visited Gainesville one time before college, and that was for the tour.

Since then, I’ve grown and changed. So has the city.

Then something happened. Upon my return from summertime last week, I rode my bicycle up and down streets for hours and miles just to bask in the glow of Gainesville during a semester start.

The excited clusters of freshmen wandering with maps and lanyards. The day–labor guys on street corners, waving signs advertising cheap liquor and mattresses, chicken wings and laundry service. The subtle pleasure of getting a thrill out of seeing a Gators license plate or bumper sticker and then realizing that here, that’s the natural way of things.

I also rode around to get reacquainted.

This fall is different from any other I’ve had with Gainesville. It is my last as a student, and for the past nine months, I have been out of town, gallivanting with the likes of Miami and St. Petersburg, working for newspapers.

For someone who swallowed the Kool–Aid long ago and dreams about University Avenue some nights — surreal visions of 2 a.m. bar crowds and racing to class on my Cannondale but never making it no matter how hard I pedal — nine months is an era come and gone.

So the rush I felt when I finally settled back a few days ago was like embracing a lover after too long a separation.

Then reality set in.

While distance may make the heart grow fonder, time changes all things. I’d been gone long enough that the city had gone on without me.

The feeling was like visiting home from college only to find that your parents had moved, and the new house doesn’t have a room for you.

Every day since has been a rediscovery of a friend I thought I knew so well.

While I’m still struck by reminders of why I feel so connected to this place (Burrito Brothers and the crisp smell of campus after a good downpour), I notice new things at an astonishing pace. And while these changes may be hardly earth–shattering for some, even called progress by others, for a guy like me who’s enamored with the idiosyncratic and au naturale beauty of the place, they can be unsettling.

The trail of change began far from Gainesville itself, beaming into my car over the airwaves as I drove up I–75.

I always knew I was close to the city when I could hit the No. 2 preset on my Pathfinder’s stereo and fill the cabin with the eclectic joys of 100.5 The Buzz.

This time, I got an earful of top–40 rock and teenybopper punk.

A year ago, the Buzz’s advertisements decried Linkin Park, Staind and Disturbed, bragging “We don’t play any of that dog s***.”

The station needed to broaden its audience and turn a profit, I know. But that little piece of Gainesville I loved was still gone as fast as it took me to reset No. 2 to National Public Radio.

Merging off the freeway and onto Archer Road, the theme of bigger, nicer and name–branded snapped into an even sharper focus.

I found that the Indian Cuisine mom–and–pop store on Archer was shuttered, its little strip–mall earmarked for upscale redevelopment, including a Shane’s Rib Shack, the southern cousin of Moe’s Southwest Grill.

Adjacent to the place, a Kohl’s department store — so close to opening that workers were arranging clothing racks inside — had sprung up from a vacant parking lot in little more than a semester.

Not that these new places won’t be useful to people (the spot where the department store was erected had been vacant for months, the site of a sagging old Win–Dixie, and Indian Cuisine was able to set up shop down the road), but they represented change, commercialization.

And change, especially the elimination of things that can’t be reproduced anywhere else, can be scary.

So the sight of yet another Dunkin’ Donuts — an icon for brand uniformity and conformity I’ve tasted from L.A. to Bangkok — going up at Archer and 34th Street stung me with a pang of loss, rational or not.

Then there were the housing developments.

The Bartram apartments standing pretty where the dilapidated Gatorwood once sagged. The half–dozen new condo multiplexes slowly eating away the student ghetto and its quaint houses and storied tree–lined streets. The stalled University Corners project that has left a two–block corner of University Avenue rubble–strewn and useless for two years. The concrete skeleton of University Club, also languishing in a state of construction limbo across from Ben Hill Griffin Stadium, like a tombstone for the typically old–Gainesville haunt of Dirty Birds — an always fun hole–in–the wall beer shack.

For a guy who has lived in every kind of traditional Gainesville abode — the Simpson Hall dorms, the student suburbs of Lexington Crossing, a 400–square–foot student–ghetto hovel apartment to a house with a big tree–filled backyard — this strange, new and expensive phenomenon of multi–story, multi–million–dollar condo construction is scary indeed.

Maybe it’s the authors I read — Carl Hiaasen, Jeff Klinkenberg and Thomas McGuane, all lamenters of the de–florification of Florida. Maybe it’s all the time I’ve spent lounging around the student ghetto, cycling through San Felasco Hammock and Paynes Prairie or sitting cross–legged in the Plaza of the Americas with a plate of Krishna food.

Maybe it’s just coming back to Gainesville and recognizing something that’s been there all along.

Upon my return this final fall, the development of Gainesville sprung at me like a big, loud ad for some new wonder drug or He–Man truck or sex, sex, sex deodorant body spray.

While my memories are set and safe, I wonder if the type of relationship I have with Gainesville will have a place in the lives of those thousands of students yet to meet this one–of–a–kind place.

Monday, July 28, 2008

My coffee machine looks like Darth Vader

Mr. Coffee, with his easy-open top and removable grounds compartment, takes on a very dark persona whenever his lid is turned up.

Indeed, the machine's 12-cup brewing capacity is overshadowed by a resemblance to what could pass for the twisted offspring of Darth Vader and perhaps R2-D2.
Mr. Coffee bears a strong resemblance to one of the best-known Sith lords. Photo | Dominick Tao

Friday, July 25, 2008

Four women in a Panera Bread

Four women sit at a table in Panera Bread.

They have a feast of soup and sandwich and syrup-drizzled frappachinos in front of them.

The youngest of the bunch, in her late 20s, talks out the guilt that comes with her meal.

"I've been eating so bad lately. Like tonight, I'm going to Carrabas," she says. "But I'm starting my plan next week. I have it all planned out, every meal, what I'm going to eat."

Indeed, there's always a tomorrow to start something new.

And then there is the homely mom, with a bland-as-butter hairdo, jeans of a generic blue and a dark tan shirt that blends with her chair.

She talks about horses, how they can be fun. How she went on vacation not long ago, but how she couldn't ride with the others on the beach, because she had broken her wrist two weeks before.

"So I just went down to where all the shops were, and I had a great time," she says.

Indeed, a straw handbag made in China and some shells to go in your scrapbook are treasures enough. Horses and white Bahamian sand and waves would simply be too much of a strain.

Then the woman in the brown capri shorts and vest-like shirt with saggy eyes atop a little teardrop head with smoke-wrinkled lips starts talking about her last vacation, a cruise on a ship called Princess Somethingortheother.

She had gone just that once, but was an instant expert.

It was nice, yes. But there were qualms. The Princess hadn't enough rails. Indeed, her ship needed many rails, so she could peer out at the ocean from anywhere and be happy. And the rails the Princess did have? Too much in the sun. It wasn't possible, she said, to get a good view without letting the Caribbean heat touch too much of her conventional little face.

And then there was the biggest problem, God forbid: the children.

"There were so many, like roving bands of kids, about 10 at a time," she said. "They were from like 3 to about 12 or 13 -- and their parents weren't anywhere. They must have met each other in the clubs or pools. If you have kids, I mean, you should go on a Disney cruise."

Then the woman in jeans with elastic at the ankles and a white shirt with beads on it and over-hairsprayed blonde hair chipped in, noting that Disney cruises are expensive.

"Yes, but you get so much," said the cruise expert.

She went on to note how inconvenient it was that the cruise line even let kids into karaoke at night -- and she really couldn't believe that they had the gall to let them sing, too.

"Most of the time, I just stayed at the back of the ship, which is 21 and up," she said with definition. "I just got up, put on a robe, went up there and drank my coffee and watched the sun rise."

"Oh," said the woman in the white shirt. "It must have been so nice."

Indeed, all of their lives were so nice. So very nice.

Why the toil, why we report

Working late. Photo|Jake May


Jake May, a colleague here at the newspaper, caught me working late in the newsroom and snapped some photos.


He asked me to write a few things about why I even bother. Here's what I came up with for his blog post about the topic:

Just because I'm Clark Kent doesn't mean I'm not Superman.
Or at least it doesn't mean I can't try.
There are too many wolves and egotists out there who simply don't care. They'll steal, and relish in that they've grown richer as their victim grew commensurately poorer. They'll ruin a life through violence or subversion, simply for the satisfaction of winning. And they'll leave a mess, a trail of destruction in their wake, and leave it to the peasants to clean up.
And it takes much talent and guile to do all these things, to scam and steal and get away with it.
It takes just as much to bring them down.
And this is my super strength and ability to fly and fight: long, dark hours working into the night. Crafting against the crafty, and backing up every word.
And perhaps in the morning when the sun hits the news, enough justice will be reflected to right the wrongs. To let empathy triumph over apathy and greed.
No, I'm no hero.
But that doesn't mean I can't aspire to be.

***
And this essay raises a question -- do too many journalists think they're self-righteous watchdogs, that they really are modern day champions crusading for truth? Perhaps. But like Batman said to the hero wannabe in The Dark Knight after being asked, what's the difference between me and you? Batman's answer: "I'm not wearing hockey pants." My answer: I'm not the 10 o'clock news. I put in the time, the sleepless nights, the self-questioning and the hours of research and interviews to be sure that yeah, I really am doing what's right by those who have been wronged.

Thursday, July 24, 2008

A deep breath from two weeks ago

Gainesville smells like my history. I have more subconscious invested here than I will ever know.

The plaza grass. The student ghetto streets after a good late-summer rain. The library bookcases and Turlington hallways.

For a flood of my past, all it takes is a breath.

Wednesday, July 16, 2008

On earnestness...

...and why it should be more widely embraced:

Fluff, I imagine, tastes to them like cotton candy, and real, raw feelings more like just-cut broccoli.


Then again, last time I checked, cotton candy was bad for you, and greens were quite good.

And yes, I like broccoli -- and think spun sugar is too sweet.

Above: what earnestness tastes like.

Monday, July 14, 2008

So... what are your career plans?

On a scholarship application, I was recently asked: "What are your career plans?"

Huh? At first, I honestly didn't have an answer. I felt bad about that -- as a 22-year-old with just one semester of college left, that's a question to which I should be able to produce a whip-quick response.

Then I thought for a second.

Oh, right! Those career plans. Turns out, I have such a good plan, it didn't even occur to me that it was in question. Here's my response:

If you asked me what city I will be living in a year from now, I wouldn't be able to give you an answer -- simply because I don't know. If you wanted to know what I will have for lunch tomorrow, I'd say to you, "food, delicious food" because that's as much as I can divine from my current mood. I know I will eat something, and that something will be good. But exactly what that something is, it's up to the cosmic menu of life to serve up, and for me to chew. But if you asked me what I'm going to be, what I'm going to do when I grow up, I'd have an answer for you before you even finished the question.

I'm going to be a writer. And furthermore, I'm going to be a journalist. I think it's one of the noblest, most fulfilling, and necessary professions yet invented. It takes all the creativity of a novelist, the pragmatism of a contract maker, and the moxie of something that goes beyond either art or arithmetic to perform. And it's a "job" that lets you adventure, explore and investigate -- virtues of life that I feel have been lost in the career pursuits of many the modern man.


Yes, it's true. Despite a life filled with every kind of unknown, every permutation of uncertainty, I'd sooner become a vagrant than abandon the only work I've found that doesn't really seem like work at all.


So when I leave the Times (a day I don't look forward to), I intend to finish my degrees in journalism and political science, and then find a place for myself in this Brave New World of news gone wild. Be it taking over the spot of a bought-out veteran at a redlining daily, or trying to find a focused audience on a Web-bound e-zine, I'll be a reporter for someone, somewhere.


In a nutshell: My career plan is to be a journalist, the best journalist I can be, for the best publication that will have me.

Tuesday, June 24, 2008

Capturing the $100 fill-up, take 1

With gas at more than $4.30 for premium (recommended by Nissan for my Pathfinder), I can theoretically push the $100 mark for a fill-up.

So when my "low on gas" light blinked on this weekend, I decided to see just how much a full tank costs me these days.

My buddy Andrew Dunn lent his video skills to produce this video of the experience:

Sunday, June 15, 2008

Fort DeSoto, pt. III: Distance to sunset unknown

When my Pathfinder left the main park road and trundled down a grassy rise toward the mangrove bank, the day was beginning to grow orange with age. The sun was past its warm yellow prime, and falling into a deepening arc across the Gulf.

I intentionally plowed through two large rain pools on the gravel trail I'd merged onto, and delighted as the plumes of clay-white water gushed from under my tires, and rained down on my SUV's jet-black hood. I drove fifty more yards, and parked next to Justin and Joel, who were waiting there in the grass in Joel's Civic. I quickly got out to meet them. We had an unknown distance to travel ahead of us, and the day was not long for this place on Earth.

Yanking the plastic watercraft from the vehicle, one from the roof and the other through the tailgate, and snapping together the tall paddles, we wasted no time preparing our launch. I locked my phone, wallet, camera and every key but a lone car key inside the SUV.

We carried the kayaks to the hole in the mangrove wall, and set them into the brackish, tannin-red water. I climbed inside the forest-green river model, using bungee straps to secure my Nalgene bottle to the vessel's stubby bow. The liter container was only half full, and filled with the remnants of my morning coffee, at that. It was our only provision.

My launch was straightforward, but the others, on the thinner and only slightly longer sea kayak, had some boarding logistics to figure. The craft was designed for one rider, but necessity demanded that two somehow fit, and the vessel still function. Justin sat on the foam-covered back brace at white plastic kayak's extreme stern. Joel sat on the bow, cross-legged.

With 300 pounds evenly distributed across the top-heavy ride-on kayak, the craft drafted low in the water. Its shallow keel scrapped along the submerged mud well after pushing off from the bank, until the rig floated into the center of the mangrove channel.

After a few minutes of feeling out the paddles' rhythm, I got up to speed and approached the first bend in the mangrove trail. Justin, piloting the other kayak, was doing well keeping pace, despite the extra burden of a passenger without a paddle.

As we rounded the bend, the sun hit us with a full broadside. I turned to see my friends. The sunlight was glinting from Joel's new blue-tinted shades. Ahead, a glimmering passage to the Gulf of Mexico was wide open, lightly lapped by a hot, ocean-borne breeze.

Justin made a comment about how unstable his kayak was. He jokingly rocked the craft back and forth. Joel gripped the sides of the kayak. I laughed.

After paddling close to a quarter mile down the mangrove channel, my friends' kayak began rocking again. This time, I'd end up laughing even harder. In a sudden, quick twist, the thing dumped both its passengers overboard.

Justin splashed down in a flailing mess. But Joel had seen the imminent dunk coming. Mid fall, just before he hit the water, Joel squeezed his mouth shut, and with his fingers pinched his nostrils closed.

Both carelessly grinned as they floated in the still, dark water, their kayak innocuously bobbing as it drifted away.

To be continued...

*Getting the watercraft dismounted was perhaps too easy, due to my own haphazard handling: After finishing my sandwich at lunch, I drove home alone. I cut through crosstown interstate traffic, and moved faster than I should have. I was aware of the dwindling daylight. When I arrived at my rented bungalow, where the watercraft were, I stuffed one kayak through my vehicle's tailgate, and knotted the other to the roof rails. I then sprinted back, a 15-minute drive.

Friday, June 13, 2008

Fort DeSoto, pt. II: from the gains, grandure

The grand fortress and its ramparts rise from the sand.

The citizens of the Crescent Protectorate were a hardworking people, getting out of life what they put in.

And if you judge that return on size, order and grandeur, innovation and aesthetics, their seaside hamlet was a spectacle among peers.

From the harsh, sun-splashed shores of the balmy Gulf, bounded by an endless coast and lethal desert, the people built their castle, their walls, comfort and safety, while surrounded by an environment stacked against survival.

At their peak, the Crescent people (named so for the large crescent island of luxury condos built behind their castle) claimed a large moat/tide-abatement system, a shell-speckled spire dedicated solely to high art and science, and a barrack cluster with enough hardened sand missiles to destroy the will and walls of both neighboring civilizations, the isolated Reservoir Builders, and the heretic denizens of lord Dunn's Rick Astlia.

Despite the pathetic efforts of the Rick Astlians to fell the walls with their grotesque pickets, the Crescent Protectorate survived tide changes and winds, and even raids from fat, bathing-suit-clad female ogres seeking to pillage its fine array of sea shells.

But not even the greatest empire can survive the will of its creator. For reasons unknown, the guiding force behind the greatest structure and culture to grace the white-sand shores for miles exacted a sudden, indifferent Armageddon.
The destruction of the great castle is watched in frozen awe by lord Dunn of Rick Astlia and other peoples of the Gulf.

And that is how I spent my day at the beach. After the saga of sand castle building, me and the gang headed to a little Italian restaurant near Fort DeSoto run by Mexicans. The food, I should note, was delicious. I had a cheeseburger on sub bread.

As I waited for the food, my cell phone rang. It was Justin and Joel, driving in from parts beyond. I stepped outside and flagged them down. The next chapter of my 12-hours under the burning sun was about to begin.

To be continued...

Monday, June 9, 2008

Fort Desoto, pt. I: Slap me five for a good morning

The morning began with an early start after a late night. Stirring under thin sheets, I rose to the sound of two alarms pulsing and wailing, begging to be slapped and silenced.

The taste of red wine was dry on my lips. It had been a good night before, with a cameo from a pair of Wing House waitresses who played the board game of Life just as they'd played their own.

"Elope and get engaged!" The blonde chirped. "That's so funny, how that's like real life!"

A few spins earlier, she decided to skip college and get paid right away, as a hair stylist.

It was a good night. But back to the morning.

I left bed and went to the kitchen. I made coffee, black and thick. It was Sumatran blend.

I dumped the sludgy mix into my Nalgene. The heat and the lexan plastic, they say, can give you cancer. But I have nothing better with which to transport my caffeine.

I wake my roommate, Eddie, and I call our friends. It is time to go. Today, we're traveling to Fort Desoto, one of the finest beaches in the country.

We pick up Jackie in Gulfport on the way. Jake stays behind, to wait for Andrew, who is off to a late start.

I drive toward the gulf sloppily. My mind was still hazy from sleep, and preoccupied with good dreams I can't now recall.

We take a route that requires a $0.50 toll. I go through the "Change provided" line despite the exact change in my hand. I like to meet the toll attendants. They're always friendly in Florida, with tropical-themed shirts and genuine smiles, despite their job.

The grinning middle-aged cool cat at the booth did not leave me disappointed. After I gave him my change, he made a fist. Before he raised the gate, he said, "Slap me five."

Our knuckles butted, he laughed, I laughed, and both our days were going better.

I piloted my Pathfinder over two long clean bridges, and suddenly, we were surrounded by water and sand and grassy little rises and palm trees ringed by sea scrub.

We'd arrived.

If only I knew how much more of the pristine island I would see by day's end.

To be continued...

Thursday, June 5, 2008

Welcome to St. Petersburg, and my musings from it



Among the old and rich, the young and hip, the space between gulf and bay swings low and sways slow.

Open streets and featherweight traffic. Wide skies and splaying palms. The ethos is as much greenie as church-son or beach bum, sun-loving as southern.

It's a place of fresh starts and fresh-air ends. Sand lots and cafe spots abound; in them, it's not hard to come by friends.

As the haze of a languid history is sliced and recycled, a modern lattice emerges from the compost. Art-house bits pave the streets, and fiber-optic bytes pulse above them.

Until summer turns into fall, I will live among it all.

This is the first post of the Daily Muse, St. Petersburg. Stay tuned in the coming weeks for adventures near and far, large and small.

A Reminder from the Welcome to Miami Post in January:
Carrying on the compulsion to document the nuances of my surroundings with a prying eye and eager pen, this blog is my new sketchbook for recording the thousands of fascinations, without fable, I see every day.

Thursday, March 27, 2008

Remembering

The old man saw me and shuffled across the Temple's carpeted floor.

He had something to give me. He had been carrying it since he was a young man.

"I have a story," he said, his voice low, from the back of his throat. "Do you want to know it?"

He stood close to me. I could smell his age, the mothballs on his old wool sport coat.

He came up to my shoulder, but in his youth, he was probably taller than I am. The weight of time -- and perhaps the other burden he carried -- had taken its toll.

I responded to him: "Always."

There was hardly a pause before the man, closing in on 90, began to recall a living hell.

They were getting rid of the bodies. So many had perished in the work camp, the grave pits were beginning to overflow. They ordered the man to begin dragging corpses from one mound of human remains to another.

As the old man spoke, his body began to involuntarily tremble. Under his drooping eyelids, his dark, far-away eyes were wide. Behind them was horror.

"And then I moved a body from the pile," the man said. "It was my mother. She was my mother."

Tears filled his eyes, and he was silent.

I put my hand on his shoulder. The weight of my arm seemed to cause his entire body to sway.

"Sir, I'll never forget your story," I said.

He squeezed his eyes shut in a long blink. He looked down, then shuffled off.

I took his gift of sorrow. And even though I will share it, I will have it always.

***

I spent Wednesday afternoon with survivors of the holocaust. I held their hands. I looked into their eyes. I listened to their voices. I won't see the world quite the same again.

You can read the story I wrote about the gathering of survivors here.

Sunday, March 23, 2008

Don't be shy

After two months of posting, The Daily Muse is beginning to build a steady audience.

About 12 unique visitors per day spend enough time on the site to have actually read something. That's about 12 more than I expected.

Considering the only advertising this blog has is my Facebook profile and word of mouth, that number makes me very happy.

The Daily Muse has been a tremendous creative outlet for me, and a tool in my exploration of different ways to express scenes and happenings in and around my life. The fact that a dozen people per day on average take an interest is really encouraging.

But I want more. Not necessarily more readers -- but feedback. What do you think about the stories? Are they interesting? What kind of thoughts do they stir in you? Do you have any ideas you'd like to relate?

Don't be shy. I'd love to know. Comment away, or just drop me an e-mail.

Thursday, March 20, 2008

Human carrion

The pair of buzzards were swooping and circling in the foreground, orbiting the stench of some roadkill or dead fish on MacArthur Causeway over Biscayne Bay.

In the distance far behind the carrion birds, four buzzards of a different kind made a perfect chain of hoovering dots frozen in the sky high above the Miami Beach skyline. Instead of feathers and beaks, these vultures were all metal and blades -- and cameras, too.

Their prey was bloody, and perhaps dead -- but it was of the human kind. Their zoom lenses were trained on a grassy strip of park on South Beach, eager to devour any trace of the man who had been shot in the head no more than an hour before.

He had been taken away by ambulance before the news helicopters arrived, but the smell of midday murder had them in a frenzy. If the guy was indeed dead, this one could be national.

It's not every day one man shoots another in the open in broad daylight with dozens of cops and thousands of tourists around while surrounded by what some consider paradise.

As I sat in traffic crossing over to the beach to cover the sordid thing, I couldn't help but worry -- would I miss out on the buffet?

When I got there, the scene was covered with enough police tape to stretch down a football field if it were laid out straight. The do-not-cross barrier zig-zagged from palm tree to street sign down a half-block's worth of park, at the intersection of 10th Street and Ocean Drive -- the heart of South Beach.

This week is also the heart of spring break for hundreds of thousands of college students.

For them, with their bikini tops and board shorts, fruity drink in hand and Ray Bans over their eyes, the scene was almost another attraction.

The police tape was like a prostrate proscenium for every person walking down the crowded sidewalk under the springtime sun. As they walked, some gawked. Others stared. And many talked. The Miami Beach Police Crime Scene Unit vans pulled up on the grass fueled their banter -- this was just like the stuff they see on TV!

"Ooh, this is CSI. Where's Horatio!?," one tan-leather woman said as she passed.

"Man, this is baller -- I can't wait to tell the girls," a shirtless spring breaker, probably from Jersey or upstate New York, commented to a friend.

As I sat under a palm tree and entertained a trio of bikini-clad spring breakers curious about my job and "like, oh my god, this whole thing," I watched the (yes, for real) CSI team taking pictures and searching for shell casings with a metal detector.

Around that pocket of gritty investigation, the world carries on. Diners nibble at $20 entrees on sidewalk cafes. Babies squeal, sand in their diapers. Craftsmen sit at their makeshift tables, selling bracelets and on-the-spot sketches to families and ladies in big sun hats. Beautiful women walk down the boardwalk, and the beautiful men turn to survey the girls' beautiful bodies as they pass. Dogs bark and piss, traffic inches along.

A homeless man was shot, and nary a thing stops.

Monday, March 17, 2008

What it is and what I hope it will always be

Thirteen hours spent writing and reporting Friday. Airport sniffer-dog retirements, finishing touches on a 40-inch feature on crime hurting a new neighborhood.

Saturday, six were dead before sunrise. All from gunshots. You can never forget the bleary, red-crackled eyes of a mother who has just lost her son. Another pair was seared into my mind.

I also wrote about a fire in a church and a missing boy.

That night, just hours after being surrounded by and writing about sorrow, I put on a pressed Express shirt and met with a friend at The Fifth, a club on South Beach.

A fashion show was there that night. Models strutted and flash bulbs sparkled. The lights and lasers traced the plush couches and packed dance floor. As I found myself in the VIP area, with open bottles of Absolut and Gray Goose in front of me, I stared off into the sea of throbbing, sweat-glistening glitter. As the poppy dance track bass thrummed in my chest and deadened my eardrums, I fell into the diaphanous cloth of smile-jerking wonder.

Every person shares in a reality of unbelievable pain and unprecedented ecstasy. The way it's been divvied up is cruel and unequal; those in need of joy and justice are often denied, and hardship consumes those who have done nothing to provoke it. Somehow I've escaped that morass.

My lot is both vivid and generous.

When I realized later that night that my car had been towed (I parked over a line. Petty, but it's how some people make their living), I got a ride back to my apartment, found out where my SUV was and then did what I had to do: got on my Cannondale and rode from Northeast 33rd Street and Biscayne to Miami Beach.

As I flew past shuffling crack addicts and dozens of homeless curled up with their every possession on bus benches and in office doorways at 4:30 a.m., life to me became so clear and simple. My professional successes seem to be growing by the day. I'm in love with a beautiful woman. I have everything I will ever need to be happy for the rest of my life: my mind and my body.

And at that moment, my biggest problem was that -- wait, was there even a problem?

As I rode, my skin grew sticky in the humid, milky pre-dawn haze. My legs burned. And I was content.

In four hours, I would wake up to cover Calle Ocho -- the million-person block party that is known the world over for its rapturous energy and musical and gastronomical delights.

As I walked among the sweaty knots of hundreds of thousands of dancing and cheering revelers filling every street and sidewalk for 23 blocks, I smiled again. Life, and all its spears and caresses, is a supremely beautiful thing.

Tuesday, March 11, 2008

Twelve hours on Lincoln Road, pt. I

One of my ticket stubs from the Miami International Film Festival.

Day begins crossing Interstate 195. Biscayne Bay sparkles under the midday sun.

Little sailboats sway in the water. The multicolored tops of berthed cruise ships loom on the far side of the panorama, monuments to the rum-soaked nights over which they will soon preside.

I park in the 17th Street Parking Garage on Miami Beach. It's nearly full. I need to park on the top level.

The cars around me are all backed-in and gleaming. The majority are large Audi, Cadillac and Land Rover SUVs. A white-shirted man with a big shiny fake Rolex confirms: this is the valet floor.

"No, no, it's ok -- you can park," he says with an unplaceable European accent. I wonder if the valet service has an official deal with the garage, or the man just parks cars here, raises the rate a little, and banks on tips.

I race down the spiral staircase. It's just before 1 p.m. We're supposed to meet at the theater at 1 p.m. I like to be on time.

On the way down, an old tourist couple are perplexed by the sign in the garage that instructs people to keep their tickets, and pay on-foot at the pay stations before they leave. I tell them it's just to keep down traffic at the exit booths -- the attendants will take their money anytime.

I arrive at the movie theater and look at my cell phone: 1 p.m. exactly.

My friends have yet to arrive -- one is running late, the other, I have no idea -- I don't have his new phone number. But I know how to get it.

I walk down to the Apple store on Lincoln Road and dart to the first open computer I see. It's a large iMac just to the right of the main entrance. The screen is oh-my-god glossy. I log into Facebook, get the number, and wipe my information from the browser.

I'm in and out in less than two minutes. The experience is very clandestine.

I go outside and make the call. Both friends are running late.

I go into Starbucks. I order a Venti iced coffee, no sugar, lite ice ($2.79).

Then I meet one of my friends -- a reporter at the ole' Alligator visiting her family in Miami for Spring Break. We briefly catch up, then my other friend calls. He's waiting at the theater.

The walk there is a walk that is the quintessential early-afternoon Lincoln Road walk. Tiny dogs. Huge sunglasses. People looking. People preening. Glasses clinking. Wallets opening. Music thumping. Chatter rising.

We go inside the large Regal Cinema for tickets. We're here for the last day of the Miami International Film Festival. In the ticket line, the three of us -- young journalists on our days off -- talk about college papers, the industry, newspapers, journalism and everything related to all of the above.

We get tickets for the 4:15 p.m. showing of Captain Abu Raed and the 9 p.m. showing of Tree of Ghebet. It is 2:30 p.m. The day is just beginning.

To be continued...

Note: This post is an exercise in a truncated narrative style. The continuation posts will take on different narrative perspectives, tones, styles and techniques. I don't write a lot outside of journalistic pieces and stream-of-consciousness notes-to-self, so this is my batting practice.

Thursday, March 6, 2008

Skid row

Depravity, destitution, despair.

To me, this is what a skid row is.

Today, I found that place. It's in a location that seems to be just as forgotten as the people who languish there.

In the short time I have lived in Miami, my job as a reporter has brought me to some of the poorest, hardscrabble neighborhoods in the city, time and again.

But even in the parts of town associated with crime and poverty, such as Little Haiti and Liberty City, I see a sort of vibrancy that is anathema to the usual description of a skid row. The streets in these places are alive, and the people who reside there carry on with a zeal and passion for life.

Getting by for some in these parts is tough, no doubt -- but at least, for most, there is still hope and joy in their lives. And the government is at least making a show effort to raise up and revitalize these places.

Skid row is not there.

My apartment is in a place described just a decade ago by the New Times as Miami's skid row. But since then, the upper east Biscayne corridor has undergone a brilliant gentrification.

I may hear gunshots, sirens and police helicopters at night sometimes, but I also wake up every morning in the shadow of luxury condos, boutique shops and a lifestyle center, complete with big-box outlets and a Target store with a Starbucks inside.

Skid row is not there, either.

Like I said, it's in a place where only the truly lost would go. It figures, that because I took a wrong turn today, I stumbled upon this mire of broken glass, cracked concrete and shattered lives.

[Note: At about 8:20 p.m., as I finished that last sentence, I thought to myself: "Am I about to exaggerate what I saw this afternoon?" Before I could continue, I had to know -- did I really find skid row? I got in my car and drove there. What I saw gave me chills.]

Tomado Way and Northwest First Court. From what I can tell, that is the geographic center of Miami's skid row. The vibe of vice throbs out from that ground zero for about two blocks in each direction.

Part of the gritty place is essentially subterranean, holed up in the cavern-like, artificially lit hollow of the nearby Interstate 395 underpass.

Under the midday Miami heat, the place looks like a tumor of third-world urban blight growing out from the towering freeway -- a hissing artery to civilization. During the day, the place is dead -- but even death has a sight and smell of its own.

Sprawled out in a gnarled patch of trash-strewn grass, a man lay shirtless, passed out. The area around him was littered with brown glass bottles and trash bags stuffed with his belongings.

Down a treeless, shadeless access road, a woman lay with her eyes shut, her legs splayed in the graying asphalt, her head and torso listlessly collapsed on the sidewalk. In the street near her, a man wearing a patchwork of coats and shorts and pants and hats stood next to a shopping basket overflowing with his treasure, which would easily be trash for you or me.

Maybe it was the heat combined with the layers of clothing, or maybe he was trying to rouse the passed-out woman -- but the man with the basket was barking something loudly toward the afternoon sky.

Men like him were all around. Another man with a trash bag was mumbling something to himself as he held his penis in his hands, urinating on a light post.

Under the eves of the squat, boxy cinderblock buildings that cover the area like fungus on a rotting log, more than a dozen hazy-eyed people sat on sagging boxes or upturned milk crates, waiting for the cool of evening to descend.

At about 8:30 Thursday night, my black SUV came bouncing over the rough pavement of Northwest 14th St./Tomado Way. I was driving south. As my array of headlights pierced the orange dim of the freeway underpass, a dozen heads on dark bodies swiveled toward me in unison.

My eyes grew wide. I could feel a shock of adrenaline hit my system. The synchrony of the denizens' gaze was haunting.

As I slowed at an intersection of Tomado and Northwest Second Avenue, a man on a bicycle in the road was leaning toward another man on the sidewalk. In front of me, a fold of bills was exchanged between them.

Ahead of me, haggard homeless people on wobbly-rimmed bicycles slowly wheeled along under the ghoulish glow of faint streetlights. Lining the sidewalks, three crack-skinny women stood on the curbs, scanning for johns and pigs.

My shiny Pathfinder stood out on this dingy street, where bicycle or rusting Oldsmobile seemed to be the ride of choice. My spine tingled as almost every eye in that corridor seemed to be trained on my headlights. Their expressions were a mix of frightened deer and eager moth. I could have been the cops -- or looking for drugs and sex.

I sped up and turned left at Northwest Third Avenue. The street is wide enough to contain four lanes of traffic, but there are no lines painted on the asphalt -- at least none that could be seen at this hour.

The scabby vista ahead was like a scene from a horror movie.

Dozens of dark shapes were milling on and around the road, silhouetted by lights from a nearby warehouse yard -- the kind of anonymous industrial park in every action film, the kind where deals go bad and corpses are found.

I actually muttered under my breath as my heart began to beat faster: "Zombies... my god, they're like zombies."

They moved slowly, seemingly indifferent to my vehicle trundling down the street. And as I passed, they stared.

I stared back. It was too dark. I couldn't see their eyes.

I drove out of there, my head shaking, my heart pounding and my mind racing.

I had found skid row.

Wednesday, March 5, 2008

Guns at dusk, beauty at dawn



Thursday afternoon in the newsroom.

Two men were murdered in a Chilli's parking lot.

I go to the apartment of one of the dead men, talk to his grieving best friend.

His neighbor, a tiny old woman with deep blue eyeshadow, said she didn't know the dead man at all, but still sheds a tear after I told her why I was there.

The murdered man was only a year older than I am.

Thursday night in the newsroom.

There is a shooting and riot-like fight at a local high school.

I've been on-call for 10 hours. I am told to go home, to begin my long weekend off.

I furiously pack, grabbing everything I need for the scavenger hunt I've planned for Audra in Lakeland and a weekend of quiet, nature and friends in Gainesville.

My phone rings. It's my editor. Dominick, a boy was shot in the head at the high school and we don't know how bad it is -- can you go to his house?

Yes, I can.

The house is in Opa-Locka, in a neighborhood where some people refuse to open their doors after dark.

I inform the woman who lives across the street from the boy of the shooting. She looks shocked and upset. She calls the boy's mother. She tells us the boy was only shot in the ear. Her son will live.

I call in my story and start driving. I-95 to the Turnpike to Highway 60 to Bartow Highway.

I make it to Lakeland in three and a half hours, even with a stop at Yee-Haw Junction for fuel, where I see my breath for the first time in months.

There is no segue between travel and my mission. After hours of continuous motion, my Pathfinder finally stops at Lake Hollingsworth. I run into the bushes, plant the clue, and drive to Lake Mirror Park, where I climb the spider web jungle gym and plant the clue at its summit.

I rush home, take a nibble of the seasoned rice my mom has left out for me, and then go to grab my bike. Its tires are flat. I will have to resort to the backup plan -- stowing away in my own car.

I FedExed Audra a clue and my spare car key a couple days earlier. I park in an empty parking lot near her house.

She gets in, finds the clues, with me texting hints from the back. When she's out at the final clue, I steal my own car.

I pick her up. We hit the road at 4:20 a.m.

Sunrise over Paynes Prairie, 120 miles away, is at 6:33 a.m.

We arrive as dawn is breaking, at 6:31 a.m.

Wednesday, February 27, 2008

The grid is down, now, go check out the gridlock

The phone lines were figuratively on fire, and the city was literally powerless.

That includes nearly every one of the 2,670 traffic lights in the county.

Gridlock had gripped Miami, with the most grinding halt hitting the Brickell and downtown areas.

I was the one who ventured into that fray. For more than an hour, I was stuck in the downtown morass, at times tempted to go off-roading through median landscaping, or turn sidewalks into my own personal expressways.

I'm sure everyone else riding in a vehicle with ground clearance was thinking the same thing (those millions of Miami Land Rover owners must have had their fingers hoovering over that button they have to jack up their air suspension and lurch over a few curbs).

But everyone was civil, most drivers even stopping their crawl and waving-in motorists trying to turn or merge. The law of traffic lights may have disappeared, but the fellowship of the road was alive and well.

Here is the bit from my feed that made it into the main story:

In downtown Miami and in the Brickell business district, gridlock trapped motorists, and as office towers lost air conditioning, employees streamed onto streets, filling up tables in sidewalk cafes.

Some parking garage attendants made the ultimate professional sacrifice: They raised the barricades and allowed cars to pass in and out without paying.

What better opportunity than a power outage to have a nice sidewalk lunch? Workers in office towers seemed to pack every available outdoor cafe table.
Photo by Dominick Tao